Although training methods may vary they all pretty much have the same basic points!
- You must be the leader. (aka 'Master', 'Alpha')
- Dogs are dogs not children (aka 'my baby')
- Dogs think like dogs they don't reason in the same way as we do. But they do reason!
- What is important to them is not the same as what is important to us. (garbage is cool - and edible, crotches and behinds are meant to be sniffed, they bark to communicate not to annoy (I think!?), digging makes perfect sense to them, peeing a gajillion times on a walk is a necessity - they are not dawdling - nor do they have a bladder infection, licking your face is not disgusting it is how dogs greet each other affectionately. To name only a few areas where we and our dogs do not see eye to eye.)
So what should you use for "rewards"?
There are mixed reviews on this and everyone has their personal preferences.
Some feel you should not use treats as it is bribery. Well, I clean better if I know I get the last piece of chocolate cake as my reward! We all work for a paycheque of some sort. We all do things for some reason, there is little we do just "because". We are asking dogs to be obedient to us, to do what we want them to do even at times against their nature. We want them to pee and poop where and when we want, thy have to eat when we want and learn words and gestures that I'm sure they wouldn't ever see or learn away from us. My way of thinking... at least let it be enjoyable for them and if food is reinforcing then let it be so. Eventually the dog will learn to do these things when asked, without the treats because you hopefully have their respect and they love you enough to do it even though they'd rather be rolling in the neighbour's cow patties.
Keep treats small so you don't fill them up on their daily quota of food just while training.
Use part of their own dry dog food meal as treats.
Use natural food ie. cheese, chicken, meats, carrots...
Leash Training
I have seen petite ladies walk Mastiffs, Great Danes, and other HUGE dogs and have them in perfect control - with the dog walking placidly at their side and have also seen HUGE men pulled along with their dog, way out in front, wheezing at the end of their leash trying to drag the guy down the street. This is the one area I have had the most trouble in training my own dogs. Leash training.
Here's a few things I've realized as I've watched and listened to those who can do this well:
1. It takes practise hours! You can not leash train your dog today! You have to go into it prepared to spend time and the process can be sloooow! I like things fairly immediate so I have had to talk to myself about this to get it into my head they are 'learning' and they don't understand what I want (yet). So don't expect to go from here to there. Don't set a destination at all in the beginning. I like Brad Patterson's method of using a 6 foot leash and wrapping it around your waist. It definitely saves your shoulders from being wrenched! It gives you full leverage with your body to control your dog. Many trainers say when the dog steps out ahead of your leg turn abruptly and go the other direction. The idea is that it snaps the leash and gets the dog 'abruptly' to realize you've done something different. This is intended to 'teach' the dog to pay attention to you AND to stay close enough to you that they can follow an abrupt change. Think of it as a game of 'Tag' and make it fun for both of you. Dogs actually enjoy the challenge of figuring out what's coming next and anticipating you. Your neighbours may think you are nuts as they watch you run back and forth in front of your house but it is worth it and it doesn't take that long before you can go longer distances in one direction. The method works but it takes time so understand that going into it. A frustrated trainer is useless. Stop the training session if you're 'ticked off' with the dog and start again later. I figured that out myself (pat me on the back!).
Gracie has come to us as an unsocialized, neglected, emaciated 9 month old (approx.) German Shepherd. She is strong and has no training at all. So walking her is very interesting!!! Our Retriever is also challenging at times because she is dominant and wants to lead. She has to be reminded that I control the walk or at least I need to make her think I control the walk! :-)
2. Dogs pull on the leash for good reasons (at least to them!)
- The biggest reason they pull is they are FULL of boundless energy that we restrain by confining them in our homes or by tying them up. Kind of like kids... (not that we tie them up *~*)... but our kids and dogs are full of boundless energy but typically we all live rather slow lives and walking, running, biking is not part of everyone's day. We're busy! But not athletically. Our dogs are athletic beings by nature and need to run off steam. When your dog is destructive it is usually because they are bored and frustrated and can't release it in a house, or tied up, any other way than to dig and chew. Our kids release it by fighting, whining and destroying stuff too! We just think it's bad behaviour. When dogs finally get a chance to 'run' it off they are leashed and made to walk at our pace and not for half as long as they really need to. I am fortunate as I live in the country, and although our dogs are living inside, we have a pasture that we take the dogs to run loose in. They spend a good chunk of time running themselves ragged after frisbees and balls and there is a marked improvement in their behaviour afterwards.
- In bad weather we have used our treadmill to walk our Retriever (Thanks to Cesar Milan!). Initially, I stood on either side of her, along the side rails of the treadmill, and tied the leash to the hand rail. Now all I have to do is call her to get on and she will walk for a half hour without leashing her at all. Gracie is just starting to try it. She was so scared when we first got her I didn't want to try something like that until I had her trust. She has been on the treadmill once now, and although initially she was nervous on a moving floor she did do a slow 10 minute walk and seemed quite intrigued by the process.
- In the past I have 'road trained' a dog too. We had a St. Bernard that grew so fast as a puppy she was soon matching my body weight and I couldn't control her. One book suggested sitting on the back of a half ton truck, or a quad, and holding the leash while someone else drove fast enough just to keep the dog trotting behind, not running. This worked well! If you want to try it there are certain things to remember: Don't tie the dog to the vehicle or leave the dog unsupervised! You must be holding the leash so that if the dog stumbles or gets caught you can let go of the leash or jump off to help the dog. Have a long enough leash that the dog isn't right up to the bumper but not so long it could entangle on the tires or run onto the shoulder and tangle in shrubs etc. Take into consideration what they are running on... gravel?... hot pavement? Remember they have pads for feet not shoes. Sharp gravel hurts and pavement can burn... ice and snow can lodge in between the toes and can cause frost bite. Also, think about the outdoor temperature and make sure you aren't overheating or freezing your dog. Watch them for signs of stress or overexertion and modify your speed. Start off slowly. This is new for your dog so don't go more than a mile to start - and don't take the dog on the road with other traffic!!! DON'T USE THIS METHOD TO PUNISH YOUR DOG! It is supposed to be fun for the dog and to help the dog to burn off pent up energy. It isn't intended to replace regular leash training. You still have to work at walking with your dog beside you. Road training is only intended to take the edge off that initial uncontrollable, wild, pent up energy for those of us who just can't seem to get our dog under control to start or for those who just are not physically able to walk with their dog.
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| A dog obediently awaiting his young master's command? |
3. Dogs have great noses! Where we are led by our eyes, dogs are led with their noses!
When you are walking your dog and they smell something interesting they will take off like a bullet to find the delightful odour that has captured their attention. Overcoming their nose is important in getting them walking well. It is a technique I have not totally mastered yet but it is coming. It is something they need to learn as to when they can go sniffing and when they are to keep walking.
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Think again! It's the hot dog she wants. |
Teaching "sit"
Any of the "trick" or "obedience" training things you teach your dog is actually not hard to do but it takes time, repetition and motivation. You have to have a quiet space without distraction of people coming and going or other noises. I start "sit", "lay down", "speak", "come", "stay"... all indoors so that if my dog doesn't want to listen I can go get her and she can't head for the hills to avoid her "lessons". Also, it is convenient for me to practise with her for a few minutes again and again throughout the day as I go about my work. Keep the lessons short and fun with lots of praises of "good girl/boy!" and strokes/pats where you know she likes to be rubbed especially when she has done something very well. In the beginning I used food rewards every time something was done well. Now Hope will follow through on a command just because she needs to and knows I expect her to and she's happy to know it pleased me. What's motivating for your dog may need to be discovered. Hope is a pig so food is highly motivating. Gracie is still afraid of many things and food is not a 'for sure' ticket to having her attention but she's getting better.
Anyway, to teach "Sit" grab a handful of cheese chunks, meat tidbits whatever your dog will find appealing. Bring your dog in front of you. Let her smell a piece of the food you have, but don't let her grab it. When you know you have her attention. Say, "(your dog's name) sit" while you hold the tidbit of food just above her head. Be prepared in the beginning she will likely try to jump for it. Be quick and say, "No, ____________, sit" I place my hand on the dogs rump, at her tail, and press down (gently) until she sits. Then she gets the bit of food. We do this same thing again and again until the dog sits on her own without having to touch her behind. When she sits on her own, without you touching her rump, praise her wildly for doing a good job. Likely she'll be so delighted she's made you so happy she'll do this act again and again just for the thrill of making you so happy. Practise throughout the day until she has it perfected.
When I'm walking Hope I expect her to sit automatically when I stop walking. I make a game of it to start and stop at odd intervals and get her to sit. There are times she is distracted so all I have to do is touch her rump without any words and she sits. I can snap my fingers and she will sit too.
To date Hope has learned:
"Sit"
"Lie down"
"Stay"
"Come" (not perfect yet but pretty close)
"Turn around" (the newest command, useful in the bathtub)
"Leave it"
"Speak"
"Shake a paw"
"No"
"O.K."
"Shake" (on command, after a bath, when I'm prepared!)
"This way" (when I want her to go a certain direction)
"Go find it" (when we hide treats on her or when she is retrieving outside)
"Find her/him (whoever is hiding)"
"Quiet" (this one she can do but not when someone first comes to the door! She's working on it though).
"Finish" ( this looks great... when she retrieves something and sits in front of me, facing me, I tell her to "finish" and she passes behind me on my right side to my left and sits down at my left leg facing the same direction I am. Some trainers use "heel" instead of "finish". For some reason I don't like the word "Heel". Really, you can use any word you want... the dog doesn't care, as long as you consistently use the same word for the same action, every time. I
could tell her to "burp" every time I want her to sit and as long as the action I want matches the word I teach her she'll sit to "burp".
Gracie is just working on:
learning her name
"Come"
"Sit"
Hope is very good at helping to train Gracie. She is learning a lot by watching and doing what Hope does. Gracie is smart but still so easily scared by distractions it is hard to hold her attention, especially outside.
Teaching "Lie down" ("Lay Down"? I never know which!)
For the "lie down" I start out having my dog sit. With a treat in my hand, I let the dog smell what I have for her. I say, "(dog's name) lie down!" as I bring my hand with the treat to the floor. If the dog wants the treat badly enough often they follow your hand down and naturally lay down. Give her the treat and lots of excited praise! Sometimes a treat isn't motivating enough so I help the dog get the idea by taking both front paws in my other hand and sliding them (gently and slowly) out in front of her so that she has no choice but to lay down, saying, "Lie down" as I do it. Then I give her the treat and praise her. Let the dog get up and then do it again (and again). How many times you practise is up to you but keep it interesting for the dog and always end on a positive note having the dog finish with something they can do well and give a treat.
Teaching "Stay"
This one takes patience and definitely start indoors if you can. Have your dog on a leash so you can catch her if she leaves or follows you. Start out expecting your dog will break and follow you or will try and get away to do something much more fun. This one lesson is where you know who's really in charge and how patient of a person you are. Persistence is needed.
I have my dog sit facing me. I hold my hand up, palm facing dog in a "stop" hand gesture. I say, "(dog's name) stay!" firmly and step back two paces. If the dog doesn't move immediately go back and give a treat and praise. This should be within seconds of each other so that she doesn't move. Don't reward her if she has moved otherwise you are "rewarding" the move not the stay. If she moved have her sit again, tell her to stay (hand up) and back away two paces. If she stayed go back and treat and praise. Some dogs just don't get it in the beginning. Two paces may be too many. You may just have to stand right in front of the dog without backing away at all and say, "stay" and treat her for sitting there. Eventually back further and further away for different time periods. Turn your back on her, read a book, make a phone call, leave the room... as long as you're able to get her if she breaks the stay.
Hope has learned well enough that we can leave a treat on the floor, between her front paws, with her laying down and she will lay there not eating the treat until we come back and tell her "O.K.". But then again, she is very smart and obedient. Not all our dogs have been so obedient.
